Riding Giants on a Proper Big Wave Surfboard
Getting your hands on a big wave surfboard for the very first time is a bit of the wake-up call. You realize quite quickly that your standard 6'0" thruster simply isn't going to cut it once the horizon starts turning dark and the get bigger is moving faster than a shipping train. There's the specific type of respect you have in order to give the ocean whenever the waves obtain into the double-overhead range, and that respect starts along with the equipment you're riding. If you're under-gunned, you're not just going in order to miss waves—you're placing yourself in the pretty sketchy circumstance. ...